Monday, 10 October 2016

The Nomos Metro Watch

NOMOS_METRO_DIAL6

The most costly and complicated part of the movement (barring additional complications), the escapement includes the balance, balance spring, escape wheel and pallet, and has no room for error. One might assume that all brands that claim to have in-house movements would all have their own version, https://www.tagwatcheuer.is but it’s actually something few brands have the capacity to make, especially the balance spring.

Slowly but surely, Nomos will be converting all of their movements to use their Swing System, which is marked by a change in naming style from Greek letters (alpha, beta, etc…) to DUW (Deutsche Uhrenwerke) plus a serial. While the naming convention might have taken a step into the generic the idea of celebrating German manufacture is clear and understandable.The first watches to use the new naming were actually in their luxury series,both of which feature extensive finishing, gold Chatons and 84 hour power reserves, though oddly, not their Swing System. As such, the Metro, which is powered by the DUW 4401, debuted their full in-house movement.

The Metro is a thoroughly modern watch with its own look and feel, a comment that is hard to make about most timepieces. It’s meant to appeal to a new, younger audience of watch collector, one that is less attached to the classical vocabularies of heritage brands.


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Sunday, 9 October 2016

The Other Seiko Factory Watch

GRAND_SEIKO_61GS_DIAL5

The interdepartmental rivalry took Seiko from a Japanese also-ran to the cutting edge of horological innovation, competing with, and often beating, the best the Swiss could offer. http://www.chinwatch.co/ Seiko accomplished this by making the two divisions, Suwa and Daini, completely independent of each other, not sharing parts, movements, or any design information.

The brand had already taken its first foray into the tool diver market with the very successful 62mas, and was looking to expand its share in the luxury watch market. By this point, Suwa had already introduced the now-legendary Grand Seiko line, and while the early Grand Seikos were attractive designs with fine calibers, Seiko wanted to lead the market in accuracy, and stretch beyond existing Swiss chronometer ratings.

The competition continued well into the early 80’s, by which point both lines were producing Seiko King Quartz and Grand Quartz pieces, respectively. The King Seiko line has its own following in the vintage Seiko community, however, and is generally the best known of Daini’s contributions to the Seiko product line.

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Archimede Outdoor Protect and Damasko DA36 Watch

SINN_556i_CASE5

They are both large enough to have presence and look masculine, but they are small enough to be agile and modest, all while sporting 200m water resistance. http://www.chinwatch.co/ These aren’t flashy watches by any means, but they aren’t lacking in looks either. The Damasko DA36 is a touch larger at 40mm, having a bit more of an aggressive build.

The Outdoor has a barrel case with hooded lugs that is altogether surprising. It’s a clever design with interesting facets that give it a modern feel, and prevent it from snagging terrain.

The DA36 has a similar shape as the 556i, but is a bit larger at 40mm. What sets this case apart (and Damasko as a brand) is the tech included. First, it has a nickel-free ice hardened steel case with a rating of 710 vickers, which is available in PVD (shown) or bead-blasted.

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Wednesday, 5 October 2016

EMILE CHOURIET ICE CLIFF WATCH

emile chouriet ice cliff closeup

Ice Cliff may look as hard as a rock but it oozes finesse and detail. Its 40mm steel case makes it ideal for men and women. The bezel bears notches that look like mountainsides and are soft to the touch. The case houses the self-winding EC9316 calibre (on an ETA2824 base) that fuels the time functions, date display and 38-hour power reserve.

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The most striking thing about the Ice Cliff is the silver dial. The wide anthracite chapter ring bearing the white minute track has craggy peaks that look like they’re encroaching on the dial. The hour rim sits between the gaps left by each of the dark cliffs.

The time is depicted in classic Roman numerals and long baton markers frosted with a snow-white luminescent coating. Eight yellow peaks beneath the markers take the mountain feel of the Ice Cliff to another level. The heart of this mountain range features Alpha-shape hands blending brushed and polished metal, white luminescent coating and dark grey lines to display the hours and minutes whilst an anthracite central seconds hand ticks by.

SWATCH SISTEM51 IRONY WATCH

swatch sistem 51 irony group

The movement is fully automatic and made up of 51 parts (hence the name) forming five modules welded together and held in place by a single screw. http://www.chinwatch.co/ Several watches all with a plastic case and silicone strap have launched since it was first presented to the world three years ago but this year, Swatch is ramping things up!

The Sistem51 has taken on the Bienne brand’s most timeless (and tamest!) collection to create the Sistem51 Irony.The dials are more low-key than we’re used to seeing from Swatch: ivory white, shimmering silver, blue with a dash of grey or deep black and classic or geometric patterns.The silicone straps have been replaced by smooth or crocodile-effect calfskin with buckles or steel links with butterfly clasps.

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Monday, 3 October 2016

Pulsar Herren PXH701 Sport-Uhren

Citizen Eco-Drive AT2210-01

Bei dem einfachen Ende zu beginnen ist das Quarz-Quadrat-Pulsar auf einem Armband mit Strom versorgt. Es hat eine schöne Größe bei 41mm mit 22mm Ösen Optionen für einen Riemen sehr anpassbar zu machen. Es hat eine Hardlex Kristall das braune Zifferblatt zu schützen Sachen sicher im Falle eines Kristalls Beule zu halten.

Das braune Zifferblatt hat eine schöne Textur in der Mitte der Markierungen und der Text ist einfach gehalten, um nicht allzu störend sein. Insgesamt ist die Uhr hat eine schöne Mischung aus sportlich und Kleid schaut mit lesbaren Markierungen und Zeiger und 100M Wasserbeständigkeit . Eine schöne Einführung Uhren für die auf einem Budget zu quadrieren .


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Ancon Sea Shadow watch

ANCON_SEA_SHADOW_WHOLE1

The watches themselves, of which there are 3 distinct models and many variations currently available, are a strange mix of huge modern cases with classic dials. Those who are familiar will quickly see elements of Rolexs, Panerais, Benrus, etc… though these are far from homage watches.

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The dials, though mostly originating post WWII, simply work with the aesthetic they are going for. But to my eyes, the watches are really about material. Bronze, PVD, steel, gun metal, drab-color gilt dials, bronze hands, oily-leather straps, creamy lume… the Ancons have a rawness to them that speaks to vintage military equipment.